The paisley pattern dates as far back as the Sassanid Dynasty (200-650 AD) in Persia. Originally it was referred to as a boteh or buta (1), a Persian tear dropped shaped motif.   It became popular again during the Safavid Dynasty (1501-1736) (2). During the time of the Qajar and Pahlavi Dynasty (1785 to 1925) the pattern was used for textile designs in royal and court garments, as well in the wardrobes of commoners (3). Historians believe the design was inspired by the pond frond; therefore it has been believed to be a symbol of fertility and celebration.

It was later, in the West called the Paisley, after a town in Renfrewshire, Scotland; where the textile mills manufactured lots of textiles with the design (4). From the time of 1800 to 1850 there were large quantities of paisley shawls produced there. European mills at the time still could not produce shawls with more than 15 colors, even at 1860. Soldiers who had been to the East often brought back Kashmir shawls which had far more multicolored facets. (5) The designs were first made on hand looms, then later on Jacquard looms (6). It is said that the design was also popular in Scotland on jewelry. During the 1900’s the design was produced on cotton; which began the popular bandana’s we know of today .

Eventually the pattern evolved and became larger with floral bouquets spreading in its design. In 1968 when the Beatles went to India; the paisley became very popular and was associated with psychedelic style and Indian spirituality . Baby carriages and everyday items were covered with the print during this time.

Paisley has gone in and out through the years. If you like classics it is considered a classic. I know in all the years since I made my paisley skirt in 1979, every time I wear it I still get compliments. When I worked at Liberty of London we sold thousands of paisley ties, handkerchiefs and blouses, as well as household items with paisley fabric on them.   I have always enjoyed seeing paisley patterns; perhaps since I remember how lovely my mother looked in them when I was a child. The retro pictures in this post are of my mother and my brother and I.  They were taken during a trip to Galway, Ireland in 1968. I made the paisley skirt in the picture of me with the hat. The other paisley skirt is from the late eighties when I worked for Liberty of London up in Rockefeller Center, NY. My African print dress I bought at the Boulder, Colorado coop in 1994. I have taken really good care of it and recently when African dresses came back in style several people commented that they thought it was new.

Picture by Angie Delacroix

Liberty Skirt

From: Liberty’s A Biography Of A Shop

 All material written and photos taken by: © Marilyn Lavender, 2014.  “All Rights Reserved.”

(1) Wikipedia

(2)Wikipedia

(3) Wikipedia

(4) English Dictionary,Oxford.

(5) Wikipedia

(6) Andrews, Meg, Beyond the Fringe: Shawls of Paisley Design, Victoriana, retrieved February 3, 2008. Heavily illustrated history of paisley fashions.

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